06/04 [Voice Dictation]

We woke up in the backyard of the “Quarter Way Inn” after tenting there the night before. Didn’t waste any time getting hot in our tents, the sun was already cooking us alive by the time we unzipped. We stumbled out and made our way over the grassy hill into the old farmhouse, where they served gourmet breakfast.

They had waffles, frittatas, blackberry jam made from fruit grown on the property, and honey from the bees out back. It was hands-down the best breakfast we’ve had out here, paired with hot coffee and kind company. The owner was sweet as can be, and honestly, kind of inspiring. Just living out here in an old Virginia farmhouse, in the middle of nowhere, running a hiker hostel, making waffles, and watching the sun rise over ridgelines. That’s the dream, isn’t it?

But eventually, we had to leave. We had a 14.8-mile day ahead of us to “Chestnut Knob”, and I knew it was going to be a long one. Almost immediately, the trail tilted upward and didn’t really let up. Sure, there were some dips along the way, but the day was mostly one long slog to the ridgeline.

For those who don’t know, the ridgeline is basically the spine of the mountain, the very top. You don’t always get to walk it, so when you do, it feels kind of special. However, it’s exposed. No tree cover, no shade, just you and the sun and whatever mood the mountain’s in. Today, she was in a hot one. It was full on summer. I swear, just a few nights ago, we were huddled in our tents trying to stay warm. Now I’m sweating through everything I own in the first hour. I’ve got to make some wardrobe changes soon, my Florida skin can handle heat, but this kind of sun while climbing mountains is a whole other beast.

We moved through a lot of meadows and pastures, which were beautiful in that wide-open, sun blasted, dodging cow patties  kind of way. Sweating buckets. Chafing. Fun stuff. We have kept our pace up. These longer days are becoming more regular now. Fourteen, fifteen miles isn’t the exception anymore. They have to be the norm if we’re going to make Katahdin on time.

We got into camp around 6:40pm, later than we usually like, but the view made up for it. Chestnut Knob sits high above a huge crater, which apparently is a sinkhole. I was hoping it was a meteor impact site or something more dramatic, but still cool.

Only one other camper here tonight. Her name’s “Bright Spot”, a sweet section hiker from Nashville. We chatted for a bit, then wandered off to set up camp. The evening light was golden, soft, beautiful. I kept finding myself staring into the sun again which, yes, I know, you’re not supposed to do. It’s not on purpose. I just sort of zone out mesmerized, then snap out of it like, Damn it, Kevin, stop looking at the sun. I did that today, and sure enough, I gave myself a migraine. Again. So yeah, note to self: get some prescription sunglasses. My glasses are basically magnifying glasses right now, which doesn’t help when you’re walking around in a sunbeam for 10 hours a day.

Other body updates: my feet are definitely changing shape. It’s weird. They hurt less now, but they’re starting to look like entirely different feet. I’m trying to keep them stretched and mobile, but it’s hard when you’re walking over rocks all day. Every single day. It adds up.

Also, I’ve lost about nine pounds. Don’t really want to lose much more... Someone pointed out I’m growing a mustache again. I do this sometimes. grow it, then shave it. Might keep it, might not. We’ll see how annoying it gets.

I’m falling asleep now, but I’m trying to get better about recording my days. Either writing them out or doing voice memos so I can keep up with the journal and eventually catch up on everything I’ve missed. I think I’ll post this one and try to work backward a little, just so I can get current again and start speaking from the actual moment. It’s easier that way, more real. Plus, it will go along with the countless pictures I seem to have no problem taking.

Thanks for sticking with me if you’re still reading these. I’m genuinely enjoying it out here. It’s been a challenge, but it’s also been a beautiful, ridiculous, surprising, adventure. We’re a quarter of the way through now, which is wild to say out loud. There’s still a long way to go. Whatever we’ve faced so far, I know there’s more ahead. I feel more capable now. More ready to face it. And to enjoy it while it lasts.

Goodnight ya’ll.